Ascent Archive: Oral Histories with Rock Climbers

Portia Menlove

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Portia Menlove, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 9 Apr 2024 06:00:00 +0000

Portia Menlove was born and raised in Salt Lake City. She spent time doing outdoor sports with her family. Portia was immediately draw to climbing as an ADHD kid and started climbing all the time at the Wasatch Front Climbing Gym and going on trips with older climbers. Portia competed in youth and adult bouldering competitions, including the Junior Competitive Climbing Association, Professional Climbers Association, Mammut Bouldering Championships, and Nationals. In 2005 Portia won Nationals and was on the US Climbing Team. Portia discusses inspirational female climbers, friendships surrounding competitions, the pressures of competition, and disordered eating. Portia now focuses more energy into trail running, but still loves to climb and be a part of the community. Portia is an ICU nurse at the Huntsman Cancer Institute.

View Portia Menlove's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Larry Love

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Larry Love, Erik Solberg) — Tue, 2 Apr 2024 06:00:00 +0000

Larry Love was born in Oroville, California where he grew up playing outdoors and enjoying sports. His dad was a plumber and his mother was a cook. After his parents were divorced, he and his mother moved to Salt Lake City where he attended the Sherman Elementary, Granite Junior High, Granite High, and Olympus High Schools. Right after high school he entered the Army Reserve, where he served for eight years. He attended the University of Utah and Brigham Young University, graduating in 1968 in physical education with a coaching emphasis and a minor in German. He played volleyball for the "Y" for four years and substituted the deep powder skiing class. He first climbed in Jackson Hole at age sixteen and was one of the originators of the Alpenbock Club. He talks about climbing with Ted Wilson and discusses the advancement in equipment. Outdoor Recreation Project. Interviewer: Erik Solberg

View Larry Love's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Cerre Francis

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Cerre Francis, John Worsencroft) — Tue, 26 Mar 2024 06:00:00 +0000

Cerre Francis was born in St. Louis, Missouri, and suffered from hip dysplasia. Treatment for her condition involved multiple surgeries and a body cast during her first year. Her family was not particularly oriented to the outdoors so early in her life she was limited to taking lessons that her parents signed her up with. Her high-energy nature led her to more adventures in the outdoors when her family moved out of urban St. Louis. She first experienced climbing when a friend, who was an experienced climber, took her to a cliff. She surprised her friend by making the climb without any falls on the first try. From that point her desire to climb played a larger part in shaping her life. To get around her parents' restriction against overnight trips she fabricated a high school sponsored climbing club. At eighteen she convinced her parents to let her go to school in Steamboat Springs to be closer to the mountains of Rifle. Shortly after she moved on to Salt Lake and the climbing opportunities it offered. Her experience and drive led her to enter into competitive climbing. Cerre believes that climbing is losing its label as an extreme sport as it becomes more popular with people left with fewer available activities. Utah Interview is part of the Outdoor Recreation Project. Interviewer: John Worsencroft

View Cerre Francis' Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jessica Taverna

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Jessica Taverna, John Worsencroft) — Tue, 19 Mar 2024 06:00:00 +0000

Jessica Taverna developed a love for the outdoors when she spent a semester working on a farm in Vermont during junior high school. In college, a friend of hers took her climbing and she loved it. She moved to Washington DC to work and became involved with the climbing community there. Jessica chose to come to graduate school in Salt Lake City because of climbing. She talks about her climbing experiences in Utah and the climbing community. She describes the climbing industry´s impact on the sport and on the environment. Outdoor Recreation Interviewer: John Worsencroft.

View Jessica Taverna's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

John Cronin

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (John Conin, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 12 Mar 2024 06:00:00 +0000

John Cronin grew up in New York City and Long Island. He started rock climbing in 1987 and quickly left to live by the Shawangunks, NY, to climb. Within a year, John started doing climbing competitions, including a few international World Cups. John really enjoyed the mental and physical aspects of competitions. In 1992, John moved to Salt Lake City to continue training for competitions and climbing locally at American Fork Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, and other areas. John recounts memorable first ascents and repeats during a very intense 12 year climbing career. John left Salt Lake City and stopped climbing, but continues to visit to see family and friends. John now plays table tennis and surfs in his free time in California.

Sarah Wolfe

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Tallie Casucci, Sarah Wolfe) — Tue, 5 Mar 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Sarah Wolfe grew up on Navajo Nation reservation with her mother and sisters. Her primary interests were singing and playing musical instruments and creating programming around culture and the arts. She moved to North Carolina after college and eventually became very involved in the climbing community through the North Carolina Chapter of the American Alpine Club, Triangle Rock Gym, and Carolina Climbers Coalition. She moved to Eugene, Oregon, for her now husband to complete his graduate degree. During that time, she created the Oregon Climbs newsletter to connect and inform climbers across the state about climbing-related news, organized the programming for the Smith Rock Craggin' Classic and Wilsonville Festival of Art, and compiled the Oregon reports for American Alpine Club's Accidents in North America. In winter 2019, Sarah moved to Salt Lake City and created the Utah Climbs Newsletter. Sarah works for Trails Utah, a trail advocacy and trail building nonprofit. She continues to compile Accidents in North America reports for Northern Utah, and serves on Glendale Neighborhood Council Board.

View Sarah Wolfe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jacinda "JC" Hunter

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah) — Tue, 27 Feb 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Jacinda "JC" Hunter grew up in Wenatchee, Washington, before moving the Utah. JC spent her childhood backpacking in the Cascades with her father and did track and field in high school. After graduating from high school, she started climbing at the Rock Garden in Provo, Utah, and climbing outside. JC worked as a nurse and recounts returning to climbing after several years of being pregnant and barefoot with her four children, getting the first ascent on Fantasy Island, and first female ascent on Breaking the Law. JC talks about being a female sponsored athlete and love of deep water soloing. JC currently lives in Boise, Idaho.

View Jacinda Hunter's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Alex Lemieux

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Alex Lemieux, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 20 Feb 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Alex Lemieux grew up outside of Montreal and recounts playing hockey, doing gymnastics, and skiing in his youth with his older brother. In high school Alex became a ski instructor and continued to work his way up through the certifications. Alex was introduced to rock climbing in high school and that soon became his other passion. While on a three-month climbing road trip in the United States, his van broke down outside of Salt Lake City. While waiting for the van repairs, Alex and his then-partner found jobs in Salt Lake City and became full-time residents. Alex became a ski instructor at Park City Mountain and continues to guide backcountry skiing and rock-climbing clients with Utah Mountain adventures as well as other guiding companies. While living in Salt Lake City, Alex and his friends started developing new climbs along the Green River, West Desert, Uintas, and other areas. Alex is particularly drawn to longer adventure climbs. Around 2015, Alex started volunteering with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance's volunteer rebolting group (WARI, the Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative) and now is an employee as an anchor technician. Alex discusses the impact of rebolting old routes and his own route development, safety considerations, and ethical concerns and considerations. With his friend, Rene Cortenraad, Alex created Gear Loop Topo, a business selling very detailed topos of classic multi-pitch climbs.

View Alex Lemieux's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Adriana Chimaras

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Adriana Chimaras, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 13 Feb 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Adriana Chimaras was born in Caracas, Venezuela and grew up in Miami, Florida. After graduation, Adriana moved to Portland, Oregon, and starting climbing. After a long climbing road trip, Adriana settled in Salt Lake City and starting coaching at Momentum Climbing Gym in Millcreek. When approached by Amanda Leonard to create some type of event of event at Joe's Valley, Adriana immediately said yes. Adriana and others created the Joe's Valley Bouldering Festival with Emery County locals, which continues to grow. At the heart of the Festival is bringing the two communities together - locals and climbers. In 2019 Adriana moved to Castle Dale with her husband (Steven Jeffery) to become the Director of Tourism and Museum for Emery County to create more sustainable tourism.

View Adriana Chimaras' Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Ted Wilson Part 2 (of 2)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Ted Wilson, Erin Halcomb, Matt Driscoll) — Tue, 6 Feb 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Ted Wilson discusses being hired to work at the Grand Tetons. He was chosen to be a part of the Tetons rescue team because of his rescue skills. He describes a few rescues he was a part of. After one rescue, the sheriff's office, who hadn't done anything to help, took all the credit for rescuing a group of kids. The most harrowing, and most famous, rescue Mr. Wilson took part in was a three day rescue on the north face of Mount Owen in 1967. A man and woman were signaling for help on the mountain. The rescue team assembled and put together a plan. It took them two days to plan the rescue and get to the victim. They got the woman off the mountain, but the man was very badly injured. Mr. Wilson stayed up with the victim during the first night, discussing climbing in Europe and trying to keep his mind off the pain. In the morning a helicopter brought morphine for the victim. On the third day, the team decided to go down the mountain with the victim, which was a very complicated process. At one point two of the rescuers (mathematicians), worked together to estimate the distance to a ledge beneath them by listening to the sound of a rock falling onto it. They succeeded in saving the victim, but the victim, according to Mr. Wilson, was upset. He told the press it shouldn't have taken the rescuers that long. All the rescuers were extremely upset, and some still are, though Mr. Wilson doesn't think about it anymore. He did his job and he got paid for it and he saved a life. Mr. Wilson then describes life after working at the Tetons. After the rescue in '67, Mr. Wilson had more confidence in accomplishing goals because he had overcome such a difficult task. He also learned to appreciate the aesthetic qualities of climbing, instead of only thinking of it as climbing. Mr. Wilson considers mountaineering to be the most challenging and rewarding form of climbing, but believes that other, newer forms of climbing have value as well. He then, discusses advances in gear and equipment and talks about some of the climbers that he admires most. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewer: Matt Driscoll and Erin Halcomb.

View Ted Wilson's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Ted Wilson Part 1 (of 2)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Ted Wilson, Matt Driscoll) — Tue, 30 Jan 2024 07:00:00 +0000

View Ted Wilson's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Julia Geisler

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Julia Geisler, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 23 Jan 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Julia Geisler grew up in Deep Creek Lake, Maryland. She discusses an early connection to nature and outdoor activities like night skiing, camping, snowboarding, and backpacking. After graduating from Dickinson College, in Carlisle, Pennsylvania, with a degree in Environmental Science, Julia traveled, through-hiked the Appalachian Trail and John Muir Trail, taught English in Japan, and guided outdoor trips for youth in California for the Adventures Cross-country and in Utah for the Oakley School. In 2003 Julia moved to Park City, Utah, for snowboarding and found work waitressing/bar-tending and being a climbing guide for White Pine Touring under Charlie Sturgis' mentorship. In 2012, Julia became the Executive Director of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) and started her own guiding business Park City Yoga Adventures. Julia talks about several SLCA accomplishments including signing a MOU with the Uinta Wasatch Cache National Forest, signing the Gate Buttress lease with The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Little Cottonwood Canyon, creating the Alpenbock Loop Trail with the Forest Service and other partners at the bottom of Little Cottonwood Canyon, rerouting the Jacob's Ladder Trail to Lone Peak Cirque, collecting data and advocating for permanent pit toilets at Joe's Valley bouldering areas in Orangeville, Utah, and helping to establish the first professional anchor maintenance crew in the country.

View Julia Geisler's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Greg Child

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah) — Tue, 16 Jan 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Greg Child grew up in Sydney, Australia, and stated climbing in high school with friends. Greg discusses early climbing, equipment, and tactics in Australia. In 1977, Greg visited Yosemite to climb El Capitan and then from about 1980s onwards lived in the United States climbing in Colorado, California, Washington, and Utah. Greg recounts challenges to writing, including the internet and new work for hire contracts, and the processes and logistics for Himalayan expeditions. In late 1990s, Greg moved to Castle Valley, UT, for the dramatic landscapes and solitude. Greg recounts a few meaningful climbs, Excommunication on The Priest and a multi-pitch adventure with John Catto in Red Canyon. Greg really enjoys walking to find archeological sites in Southern Utah and served on the Friends of Cedar Mesa's board.

View Greg Child's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Melissa Lipani

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah) — Tue, 9 Jan 2024 07:00:00 +0000

Melissa Lipani was born and raised in Rochester, New York. Her family owned Lipani's Bakery, which unfortunately burned and was never re-opened. Melissa participated in dance and gymnastics as a youth. Melissa moved during college to Fort Collins and feel in love with the mountains and being outside. She eventually found climbing and became obsessed. After a period of traveling and climbing throughout North America with her husband, Adam Holmes, they settled in Salt Lake City. Melissa worked at Black Diamond Equipment in various positions and then for several animal welfare organizations and now is a real estate agent. Melissa recounts memorable boulders in Little Cottonwood Canyon and Joe's Valley, along with volunteer work with HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundations' Climb for Life events in Salt Lake City. Melissa continues to foster dogs and does dog therapy for the third district courthouse.

View Melissa Lipani's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jeff Lowe Part 6 (of 6)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Jeff Lowe, Matt Driscoll) — Tue, 12 Dec 2023 07:00:00 +0000

Legendary Utah-based climber Jeff Lowe (1950-2018) talks about his experience and observations on the development of climbing gear. Lowe did not just observe major significant developments that pushed the sport further; he was an innovative and driving force behind them. From shoes to portaledges, and his first soft-shell jacket which changed everything for regulating body temperature, Lowe maintains that all along climbing and the desire to climb in new places remained the primary motivation to create new gear. Working with Lowe Alpine, Lowe Pro, Asolo, La Sportiva and Latok, Lowe mentions specific projects, other climbers like Chouinard, and particularly how he enjoyed working with his brother Greg over the years. Lowe recounts his early climbing instruction through family members, clubs and work with Colorado Outward Bound. Lowe began the International Alpine School, the American Mountain Guides Association, created climbing festivals and competitions, authored instructional books and videos and asserts the importance of teaching an appropriate attitude as well as technique. Lowe made several big mountain climbing films with his brother Greg and addressed any challenge. He became the father of ice-climbing at the Winter X Games by virtue of creating the first artificial ice wall for competition. Unable to find equally capable peers to climb with, Lowe eventually began to mentor and climb with some of the world´s most talented younger climbers like Alex Lowe and Catherine Destivelle. Lowe also gives his take on indoor climbing gyms and the real experience. Project: Outdoor Recreation. Interviewers: Matt Basso, Greg Thompson, John Worsencroft, Cheri Daily.

View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jeff Lowe Part 5 (of 6)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Jeff Lowe, Matt Driscoll) — Tue, 5 Dec 2023 07:00:00 +0000

View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jeff Lowe Part 4 (of 6)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (J. Willard Marriott Library, University of Utah) — Tue, 28 Nov 2023 07:00:00 +0000

View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jeff Lowe Part 3 (of 6)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Jeff Lowe, John Worsencroft) — Tue, 21 Nov 2023 07:00:00 +0000

View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jeff Lowe Part 2 (of 6)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Jeff Lowe, John Worsencroft) — Tue, 14 Nov 2023 07:00:00 +0000

View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jeff Lowe Part 1 (of 6)

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Jeff Lowe) — Tue, 7 Nov 2023 07:00:00 +0000

View Jeff Lowe's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Matty Kastellec

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Matty Kastellec, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 31 Oct 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Matty Kastellec grew up in New York City, attending high performing public schools, including the Fiorella H. LaGuardia High School of Music & Art and Performing Arts for trombone. In addition to school and music, Matty remembers enjoying climbing with his Uncle and gymnastics. At the University of Michigan, Matty eventually studied International Studies, which taught him about power and systems of oppression. Matty moved to Salt Lake City in November 2019 and quickly made a few queer friends before the pandemic lock-down. Matty discusses the impact of the pandemic on his life and relationships. Before moving to Salt Lake City, Matty attended the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance's Climbing Festival and became involved with the Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) Committee, as a result of summer 2020 and a letter to the organization to take action. In 2021, Matty and Rue Zheng relaunch Salt Lake Area Queer Climbers' meet-up with great success. With Lea Hernandez, they continue to host SLAQC meet-ups, events, and collaborations with other queer groups. Matty hopes to secure non-profit status for the group and to continue to lay the foundation for a robust queer climbers community.

View Matty Kastellec's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Jessica Powell

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Tallie Casucci, Jessica Powell) — Tue, 24 Oct 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Jessica Powell grew up outside of Boise, Idaho. Her family spent weekends camping, riding dirt bikes, and snowmobiling. Jess moved to Salt Lake City to Utah county and got a job at a gear store and eventually progressed to a management role. In 2013 Jess started working at Black Diamond Equipment in Salt Lake City in sales and eventually became the Event and Partnership Manager. In this role, Jess discusses several initiatives that she's excited about, including creating Beladies, a women's climbing group and event series, and creating opportunities for marginalized communities to diversify the outdoor recreation industry. After George Floyd's murder in summer 2020, Black Diamond Equipment set aside $250,000 to diversify the outdoors, by creating programs and providing sponsorships for AMGA certification for people from marginalized communities. Jess also discusses her roles at the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance and goals as the new Chairperson of the Board of Directors. Jess sees mentorship as a huge need for the industry and climbing community.

James Garrett

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (James Garrett, Matt Driscoll) — Tue, 17 Oct 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Garrett was born in Duluth, Minnesota, started skiing when he was around six or seven years old, and eventually moved to Montana, where he continued to pursue skiing. He moved to Switzerland, met his wife, Franziska, and discovered climbing under the influence of the Von Kämel brothers, Swiss mountain guides. James returned to the States in 1980 and worked as a ski patroller in Colorado before eventually settling in Salt Lake City with his wife in 1981. James draws frequent comparisons between the American and European climbing ethic, noting the support provided to climbing by government institutions in Europe. He is an accomplished first ascensionist, having developed new routes in the Wasatch and the West Desert, among other places. He discusses the development of climbing in Utah's West Desert, specifically an area called Ibex. James wrote a guidebook on climbing in the West Desert and responds to questions about the qualities that a good guidebook should have, alluding to the Ruckman guidebook on Wasatch climbing as a model text. He continues to climb actively, often traveling international to climb in new places and experience different cultures. Interview is part of the Outdoor Recreation Oral History Project. Interviewer: Matt Driscoll

Emmeline Wang

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Emmeline Wang, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 10 Oct 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Emmeline Wang grew up in Fremont, California, in the San Francisco Bay Area, playing travel softball and running cross country. Emmeline was a student athlete at Menlo College studying marketing. After college, Emmeline started rock climbing before moving in Salt Lake City in 2020. She loves the vast landscapes, particularly Yosemite Valley in California and Indian Creek in Utah. Since moving to Salt Lake City, Emmeline has started modeling and storytelling for outdoor companies, including Gregory Packs, Patagonia, Title Nine, and Teva, in addition to her full-time job managing social media at AllTrails.

View Emmeline Wang's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Ryan Suen

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Ryan Suen, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 3 Oct 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Ryan Suen grew up mostly in Texas, before moving to San Jose, California, at about 11 years old. Ryan recounts the stark differences between Texas and California, importance of education to his family, and the impact on the 2008 recession on his extracurricular activities. While attending the University of California at Irvine, Ryan was introduced to climbing and spent time in Joshua Tree. After graduation, Ryan focused on work and traveling for the finance industry. In 2019, Ryan moved to Salt Lake City and eventually became involved with both Color the Wasatch (co-leader) and Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (treasurer and Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion Committee member).

View Ryan Suen's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Cathy Beloeil

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Cathy Beloeil, Erik Solberg) — Tue, 26 Sep 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Beloeil grew up in France and climbed for the first time when she was 12 years old. Although she was involved in many sports as a child and adolescent she did not consider herself very good at them. She did not like the rules and restrictions that were a part of organized sports. The natural rhythm of climbing and the freedom it offered over other sports were what attracted Cathy. The clarity required during climbing brings an almost meditative calm over her mind. This interview is part of the Everett L. Cooley Oral History Collection and the Utah Outdoor Recreation Oral History Project. Interviewer: Erik Solberg

View Cathy Beloeil's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Victor Copeland

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Tallie Casucci, Victor Copeland) — Tue, 19 Sep 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Victor Copeland was born in Iowa and grew up in California. Victor was drawn to climbing at an early age after being completely enamored by Boreal Firé climbing shoes at an REI store. Victor's climbing quickly progressed and he travelled internationally to France at 13 years old, in addition to climbing in the western United States (Bishop, Yosemite, Rifle, Joe's Valley, Hueco Tanks). While in high school, he became a "weekend warrior" and started developing new boulders in Bishop, which evolved into a brief stint climbing fulltime. Victor went on a few sponsored climbing trips before making a pivotal decision to skip a North Face trip to focus on his studies and eventually attend law school. While a student, Victor recounts buildering on UC Davis' campus and multiple interactions with campus police. After a break from climbing, a poor competition performance motivated him to focus on climbing again with the goal of making finals at the Teva Mountain Games in Vail, CO (he didn't make finals, but managed to do an uncontrived figure four in the qualifying round and make a pilgrimage to a legendary John Gill boulder). During his last semester of law school, Victor broke his leg after being hit by a car while skateboarding. During his recovery, Victor focused intensely on free soloing in the Lake Tahoe area. Around 2009, Victor moved to Salt Lake City with his wife and began establishing new boulders in Little Cottonwood Canyon and Big Cottonwood Canyon, specifically in the backcountry and on taller, headpoint-style highball bouldering lines. Victor recounts a life-changing highball boulder fall where Wasatch Search & Rescue had to bring him out of the backcountry on a "big wheel" to get him to the hospital. Even after the injuries, Victor continues to share his excitement for bouldering and writing about climbing. In part two, Victor shares the materials he donated to the Marriott Library's Special Collections and the significance to him. Victor concludes with his dream of Little Cottonwood Canyon.

View Victor Copeland's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Nancy Feagin

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Nancy Feagin, Matt Driscoll) — Tue, 12 Sep 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Nancy Feagin was born in Washington, D.C., but spent her formative years in San Francisco, California, and Jackson, Wyoming. When she moved to Jackson, she competed as a ski racer for her high school, and around the same time, she learned to climb in the Tetons. After graduating from Duke University with a Bachelor's degree in Engineering, she returned to Jackson, worked briefly for a software company, and then decided to pursue her passion for climbing. She traveled for a number of years and began to climb big walls in Yosemite and other places. Nancy moved to Salt Lake City in 1991 to work at just-opening Rockreation. Since she has lived in Salt Lake, she has made numerous significant climbing trips, most notably a solo ascent of Aconcagua in South America and a 2001 ascent of Mount Everest. Nancy speaks about a number of her climbing partners, as well as the numerous transitions in her climbing career. Interview is part of the Outdoor Recreation Oral History Project. Interviewer: Matt Driscoll.

Read more about Nancy Feagin in this Vertical Files post.

View Nancy Feagin's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Rick Reese

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Rick Reese, John Worsencroft) — Tue, 5 Sep 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Reese graduated from East High School in Salt Lake City, Utah, then joined the army reserve and served active duty in response to the Berlin crisis. He worked for the National Park Service as a climbing ranger at Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park. His first great climbing experience was Mount Rainier, where he was a part of the youngest unguided climb up to that date. He became a part of the Alpine Buck Climbing Club, and was very active in the Wasatch, which has some of the best climbing and backcountry skiing in the world. Reese talks about improvements in technology and rescue technique. His closest friends in life are climbers and he acknowledges that sometimes his family and climbing relations weren't always in balance. Interview is part of the Outdoor Recreation Oral History Project. Interviewer: John Worsencroft.

View Rick Reese's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Andrea Ramos Campos

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Andrea Ramos Campos, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 29 Aug 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Andrea Ramos Campos moved to south Florida from Peru when she was 6 years old. Her family moved due to racial challenges for her Black and White parents in Peru and for more opportunities for Andrea and her sibling. Andrea recounts growing up with a very loving family, a vibrant community, and a love for nature. Andrea enjoyed dance, including salsa, Afro-Peruvian music - festejo, color guard in high school, and eventually fire bending with a staff. Andrea discusses her first visit to the mountains and first climbing experience in Big Cottonwood Canyon. In 2016, Andrea moved to Salt Lake City and started climbing more with her roommates and overcoming financial barriers of the sport. Andrea then discusses her community organizing and leadership with Color the Wasatch, Salt Lake Area Queer Climbers, and Salt Lake Climbers Alliance. Andrea owns her own business, Lovin' Coven, a trauma-informed yoga practice and podcast.

View Andrea Ramos Campos' Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Zack DiCristino

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Zack DiCristino, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 22 Aug 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Zack DiCristino grew up in rural North Carolina in the Appalachian mountains. Zack spent a lot of time outdoors playing in the woods; and he loved school and sports. While attending the University of North Carolina, Zack's best friend and roommate introduced him to climbing. After his graduation, Zack moved to Denver, CO, to attend the University of Colorado Health Sciences Center for his Masters in Physical Therapy degree. Zack worked at Howard Head Sports Medicine Center, Stanford University Athletics, and Vail Health. Zack started treating more rock climbers and working at climbing competition events, including USA Climbing Nationals, IFSC Youth World and the IFSC Vail World Cups. In 2019, Zack became the USA Climbing's Medical Manager and National Team Physical therapist. He discusses USA Climbing's progressive support for athletes, climbing's debut in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, several memories from the Olympics, competition climbing's health topics, and considerations for new physical therapists. Despite his heavy involvement with competition climbing, Zack continues to see climbing as an outdoor lifestyle pursuit.

View Zack DiCristino's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Cheryl Pirozzi

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Cheryl Pirozzi, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 15 Aug 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Cheryl Pirozzi grew up in Manhattan Beach, California, outside of Los Angeles. She recounts an impactful experience going the Mojave Desert with the Girl Scouts as her first experience in wilderness and an introduction into climbing. As a teenager, Cheryl and her dad would go to Yosemite and find climbers to take them out. For her undergraduate studies, Cheryl went to Dartmouth College to study ecology and environmental biology. During that time, she started sport climbing at Rumney and met her husband Mike. They moved to Portland, Oregon, for two years before returning to Dartmouth College and Brown University for their medical studies. They picked the University of Utah for their residencies for the accessibility to wilderness and climbing. Cheryl recounts several memorable climbs, mentors in medicine and climbing, motherhood, COVID-19 pandemic, and mental wellbeing. Cheryl is a pulmonary medicine and pulmonary critical care doctor and exposure-related lung disease researcher at the University of Utah.

View Cheryl Pirozzi's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Ron McKay

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Ron McKay, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 8 Aug 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Ronald McKay grew up outside of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. In high school, Ron's school had an outdoor program class, which took students to the Shawangunks in New York to top-rope. After a few years, Ron began to lead climb at the Gunks and continue to boulder there and in PA with his friends on the borrowed high schools' gear. After one year of college, Ron took a climbing road trip out West and eventually settled in Bend, OR, for about 6 years in the early 1990s. During that time, Ron worked at Entre-Prises (EP Climbing) and Metolius. Ron moved to Salt Lake City in 1996 and worked at Black Diamond Equipment and Snowbird before going back to school at Salt Lake Community College (SLCC) and the University of Utah for a math degree. After completing his Master's degree in Math, Ron started teaching math at SLCC. Ron recounts how Salt Lake has treated him well holistically through the last 26 years.

View Ron McKay's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Priyam Patel

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Priyam Patel, Tallie Casucci) — Thu, 3 Aug 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Priyam Patel grew up in Bayonne, outside of New York City. She recalls the significant role of her family and education played in her childhood. She recounts large family gatherings and playing with her sisters and cousins in the streets. Priyam discusses several challenges of being a first generation Indian American, including growing up in a predominately White community, pursuing her mathematics career, and starting rock climbing. There were several early college and PhD mentors at NYU and Rutgers, who encouraged Priyam to continue her studies and research in mathematics. In turn, Priyam has continuously advocated for a more inclusive and supportive mathematics field for women and people of color. Priyam went to Purdue University and UC Santa Barbara for post-doctorate fellowships and eventually accepted a position at the University of Utah in the mathematics department. She loves teaching math and her research. In Santa Barbara, Priyam was introduced to rock climbing for its problem solving aspects. With Matt Burbach, Priyam helped start BIPOC at the Front Climbing Gym, which was later renamed Color the Wasatch in 2020. Priyam discusses several accomplishments and goals for Color the Wasatch and inclusivity in the climbing community by putting people first.

View Priyam Patel's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Mike Call

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Mike Call, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 1 Aug 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Mike Call was born and raised in Salt Lake City. As a kid, he spent time hiking with friends by Olympus Mountain. In his older teenage years, Mike discovered climbing. He created his own home climbing wall and was a member of the Body Shop, a co-op climbing gym. In the 1990s, Mike worked for IME, Black Diamond Equipment, and Pusher Holds, all while starting his filmmaking career. Mike described the process of his first climbing film, "Yank on This." Mike developed both boulders and routes throughout Utah, including American Fork and Little Cottonwood Canyon. Mike discusses his roles with climbing competitions as a course setter and then filming them. Mike continues to work on climbing and non-climbing film projects.

View Mike Call's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library

Lea Hernández

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Lea Hernandez, Tallie Casucci) — Thu, 27 Jul 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Leandra H. Hernández grew up in Houston, Texas, in a tight-knit multigenerational Mexican-American family. At a younger age, Lea spent time roller skating, participating in organized sports, and reading. Lea attended the University of St. Thomas (undergraduate), University of Houston (Master), and Texas A&M in College Station (PhD) in health communication, journalism, and media studies. Lea discusses teaching military-affiliated students at Navy bases, specifically the Naval Amphibious Base Coronado (San Diego, CA) and Marine Corps Air Station (MCAS; Iwakuni, Japan). Lea taught at the Utah Valley University in the Department of Communication during this interview and started teaching in the Department of Communication at the University of Utah in Fall 2023. She discusses the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on teaching and her personal life. While in San Diego in 2014, Lea and her husband did a REI outdoor climbing trip and eventually both started to consistently climbing. Lea discusses the role of the climbing for her physical and mental wellbeing, and really values the communities at the climbing gyms: Vertical Hold and Mesa Rim (San Diego, CA), Spooky Climbing (Otake, Japan), and the Front Climbing Club (Salt Lake City, UT). While in CA, Lea and her husband mostly did long multipitch climbing, whereas in Japan they transitioned to bouldering and have continued bouldering mostly. Lea recounts simul-climbing on Mt. Emerson with her husband and getting altitude sickness as a powerful learning experience. While in Japan, Lea learned climbing training techniques (finger health, power, weight lifting, etc.) from the Japanese climbers. Once moving to Salt Lake City, Lea immediately became involved with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance with the Communications Committee, and eventually became a Board member and a member of the ad-hoc Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) Committee. As a queer, brown climber, with research on DEI topics, Lea was very excited for the JEDI Committee and encouraging SLCA towards intentionally viewing and implementing DEI practices. In Pride Month 2021, Salt Lake Area Queer Climbers (SLAQC) restarted and had 60 attendees, who asked for weekly meet-ups. At the event, Lea was asked to be the third co-organizer. Lea discusses SLAQC's accomplishments in the past year including partnering with SLCA, Color the Wasatch, Radical Adventure Riders (RAR), & Utah Rainbow Hikers, hosting DEI talks, starting a mentor program and gear/book lending library, and pitching a Pride photo shoot for Black Diamond Equipment. Lea highlights the local collaborative support network, including Black Diamond Equipment's outdoor climbing event support, and the gyms' weekly support for SLAQC, including food, guest passes, & gear for raffles.

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Merrill Bitter

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Merrill Bitter, Matt Driscoll, Tallie Casucci) — Tue, 25 Jul 2023 06:00:00 +0000

Merrill Bitter (b. 1953. d. 2022), born in Salt Lake City, was first introduced to the outdoors in Michigan in the Boy Scouts. He got into climbing in the mid-1970s with a course at Timberline Sports instructed by Dave Smith and Mark Freed, and was hooked for life. In a lifetime of climbing he has climbed with numerous well-known Utah climbers, from Bret and Stuart Ruckman, to Jeff Newsome and many others. He remembers the big 1980s climbers, Brian and Jonathan Smoot, Les Ellison, the Ruckman brothers, and Kim Miller. Mr. Bitter talks about climbing styles, his favorite climbs in Utah and outside the state, and the value of travel in learning new styles and knitting the climbing community together. More interested in movement than in simply being outdoors, he discusses the evolution of the Utah climbing gym scene and also emphasizes the importance of diet in his own climbing. Tragically, Merrill Bitter died in January 2022 due a backcountry skiing accident. This interview and a previous blog post commemorates Merrill's importance and contributions to Utah's climbing community.

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Katey Blumenthal

tallie.casucci@utah.edu (Katey Blumenthal, Tallie Casucci) — Fri, 21 Jul 2023 21:00:00 +0000

Katey Blumenthal grew up in Manhattan, New York, and was introduced to rock climbing at a young age was interested in both the movement and the culture of climbing, such as the independence, silliness, satire, and creativity. Beginning in college, Katey spent time doing anthropology work in the Himalayans and volunteering with NGO's such as the dZi Foundation, where Katey was inspired by local healthcare providers' thorough physical examinations, listening skills, and ability to treat with just their hands. In 2013, Katey moved to Salt Lake City to attend the University of Utah's Doctorate of Physical Therapy program. Katey loves the listening, puzzle-solving, and diagnostics elements of physical therapy. Katey's current perspective is based on what she sees in the clinic as a physical therapist, including climbers at their low points and expressing raw emotions. She values the privilege of gaining patients' trust and having a clinic that respects their dignity and privacy. Most of the challenges Katey sees in clinic and the climbing community revolve around self-worth, dignity, and values. Specifically, Katey discusses both the diagnostic challenges, along with the culture and societal challenges, such as sport compulsion and obsession, (over)training, and self-worth, with treating climbers. Katey views disordered eating and restrictive eating as an important health topic within climbing, but that it's a symptom of not always being a community that identifies and supports emotional health processes. Katey also treats pediatric pelvic health and discusses incontinence and shame surrounding incontinence both in children and athletes. Katey touches on transgender climber health and advocates for policies that put human dignity first. Katey teaches a University of Utah Physical Therapy course and mentors other health care providers and students who are interested in treating climbers and pelvic health. Katey also collaborates with USA Climbing and supports Zack DiCristino at World Cup events, and expresses a deep need for more mental health professionals. The oral history concludes with Katey's personal wellness and adventures.

View Katey Blumenthal's Oral History in the Marriott Digital Library